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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.